Conakry

Hello everyone! I made it to Conakry after the aforementioned two and a half days of hell. The ride to Kankan was smooth, but from Kankan to Dabola, I had to ride in a minibus, not an actual car. I have told you how many people they squish into the taxi cars, but let me tell you – they squish more into the minibuses! And just to let you know, that road between Kouroussa and Dabola is still potholed. And the minibus only took me to Bissikrima (20km from Dabola), where I had to wait hours for another taxi to leave. I thought we wouldn’t make it to Dabola, but we finally got ready to leave, and things started looking promising.

Until the car wouldn’t start.

Men had to jump off the roof to push it to get the car to actually turn on! And then we had to do it again when we stalled out going over a giant pothole. And again after a speed bump. Then, we started cruising. Thank goodness, I thought. But then, the driver began turning off the engine each time we cruised down one of the small hills out there. Then he would try to turn it back on as we approached the next uphill. It was an adventure, as taxi rides here always are. But I finally made it safely to Dabola and had to find my way to Eric’s house. Luckily, I found the police station, and a very helpful man took me right there. Boy, was I relieved to find Eric at home! (I wasn’t actually sure he’d be there at all, as there was no way to let him know in this country of poor communication that I was planning on visiting him from 350 km away).

My evening in Dabola was full of good food, intellectual conversation, cold sodas, and being caught in the fiercest rainstorm ever. Josh, my APCD picked me up in a Peace Corps ride the next morning, and we continued down the road to Tolo, Devon’s site, where Reid was waiting for me. It was really magical to finally see him again. 6 weeks is too too long. I never want to do it again.

On our ride down to the big C, things kept getting greener and greener. I had forgotten how colorful the world could be. Everything in Haute is brown with a teeny bit of green mixed in. Everything in the rest of Guinea is green, straight green, nothing else mixed in. We stopped at numerous roadside fruit stands, where I went CRAZY! So much color, so much fruit! I didn’t realize how deprived I was in Haute. I bought pineapples, mangos, papayas, tomatoes, eggplant… so much color!!! I still love Siguiri, and I can’t wait to get back, but I am going to take back a GIANT box of Bas-Cote fruit with me!

Since arriving in Conakry, life has been mostly a vacation. Reid and I have spent most of our time together, and each day our only main activity was going to the market to buy ingredients to prepare grand dinners. Let me describe the dinners to you:

Day 1 (with big group): Indian food. Marinated chicken, lentils, vegetables, and nan.
Day 2: (with Ali) baked fish, fried eggplant, with a cucumber salad dressed in a mint yogurt, and pita
Day 3: (with Ali and Zach) baked fish with pineapple, roasted sweet and plain potatoes, and giant salad
Day 4: olives and feta for an appetizer, pineapple-basil roasted chicken, roasted green peppers stuffed with a melange of tomato-basil couscous and Comte cheese, hummus, cooked cabbage, and a salad.
Day 5: Steak with blue cheese, steak fries, steamed carrots and green beans, and tomatoes with basil, garlic, and feta
Day 6: Baked fish again, this time baked with lime and basil, and served with a mango-cucumber salsa. Served with sautéed eggplant and zucchini and a salad of greens, avocado, blue cheese, and balsamic.

Each day got better. Can you believe we prepared such extravagant meals here in West Africa! Imagine what Reid and I could prepare if we had a Whole Foods nearby! The last few days have been less focused on food, as Reid came down with the Guinea-bug, and hasn’t been eating at all. It’s strange to be eating more than him right now. Usually I count on him to clean my chicken bones! But, I am sure the Guinea-bug will say Au Revoir soon, and Reid will be back to normal.

Yes, Reid was supposed to leave last week. Yes, we have spent a week and a half together. No, he is not faking his stomach problems to stay in Conakry longer to be with me. You can ask Steve, our Country Director.

Since Friday, things have taken on a different tone around here. Henry McKoy, the Director of the Africa region, arrived in town, and we have focused all of our attention on impressing him. An informal dinner at Steve’s, a visit to the PCV house, a formal cocktail party at the Ambassador’s…it’s all been quite amusing. I told Henry McKoy that we had met before – at DU when he came and spoke to my class, and after reminding him of our first meeting, he proceeded to tell everyone “our story” – from the Ambassador to our Country Director to our PCMO. The man would not stop telling the story! But I enjoyed his visit and all the free food, beer, and wine that came along with it. Please, Peace Corps, send your officials to Guinea anytime!

It’s sad – I have a lot more to say, but no energy to write it. I suppose I will finish up all the story telling later.

Ps – if you send me packages with food inside, THANK YOU! But say it’s oreos or granola bars or whatever in its own unopened packaging, please wrap them in something, and put them in sealed ziplocks. And then maybe another ziplock. And then some steel contraption. And then send it over here in an armored car. Otherwise, the mice get to the food, and I open a package of empty wrappers. Seriously. No crumbs, just wrappers. It’s the saddest moment I have ever lived through – picture it - so excited to open a package from a loved one, I see the oreos and scream, only to find the packaging chewed open and every last crumb of oreo gone. Sniff, sniff.

pps - FISH HEADS!