Friday, February 24

back to Forecariah

heading back to Forecariah tomorrow morning at 5am. another loooong day riding across the country in the bush taxi. my site visit has been perfect - i have fallen in love with haute, and i have bonded with my fellow hauters. life is good and only going to get better.

i will be away from phones/email/functioning post office for the next month or so, so wish me luck with my last 5 weeks of stage. i will talk to you all soon.

lots of love,

aim

comment noted

and then deleted. i doubt tuna or tampons will affect my cultural exchange.

thanks for stopping by.

Thursday, February 23

wish list updated

I am actually finding that Guinea has NONE of the products that I was told they would have! Life here is going very well, but our dependance on certain things is starting to wear on all of us.

here is some stuff i need, some stuff i crave, and some other stuff that would just make me smile:

cereal - oatmeal squares and kashi
parmesan cheese
junk food
TUNA pouches
hot sauce
red pepper flakes
trail mix
wheat thins
dry pasta sauce mix
oreos
spices
gum
granola bars - cliff!

shampoo
deodorant (dove)
tampons
ziplock bags and tupperware
face wash (oil free)
crystal salt deodorant stick - i'd like to try it

old magazines
duct tape
a hug

and here is my address in Guinea:

Amy Klein
Corps de la Paix Americain
BP 1927
Conakry, Guinea
West Africa

Last days of site visit

I walked 2 hours towards Mali on Tuesday night with Fode. We passed baobab trees and cows and many mosques. On our way back into Siguiri, as the sun was couche-ing, we heard the call to prayer. It was the perfect evening, even though I stepped in goat poo, got called “tubabu” 36 times, and tripped over a mango tree root. It will be the perfect bike route once I move here – I have decided to make it all the way to Bamako one day!

Yesterday was the perfect Africa day as well – I took a pirogue (a large canoe) across the Niger from Tiguiberi to Kiniebakoro to visit Rob. We got to see part of the Fete de Conde, where men dress up in straw outfits and flashy masks and chase children around town to the beat of Malinke drumming. The pirogue across the Niger was the most peaceful time I have had here in country. It was exactly as I pictured my life here to be. And the baobab sitting up on the high bank on the Kinibakoro side was the perfect “bienvenu” for us.

Now that I have been to site, I am finding it hard to think of going back to Forecariah. I think it’s because I am scared of forming closer relationships with the stagieres who are heading elsewhere in Guinea. I don’t know how often I will leave haute – I don’t know if there is any reason to ever leave – it’s perfect here. I guess I will leave only to see my friends in the Fouta. I am going to miss them so much.

But I am going to put this thought out of my mind and return to Forecariah not afraid, not already saying goodbye. I hope everyone else will do the same. Either way, this last month with my 37 Americans is going to be….. ummm…. it is going to be.

Tuesday, February 21

A note from my new home

Hello from Haute !!

Although it is the hottest region of Guinea, it’s also the best, and according to my Prefect (the head guy around town), Siguiri is the hottest but also the best city in Haute!!

I arrived in Kankan after a long bush taxi ride on Sunday. The taxi was hot and crowded but not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. Sarah, Alex, and I shared a taxi with our counterparts – that’s 7 people, including the driver in a compact car. 2 passengers in the front passenger seat and ‘ passengers in the back! We were packed in like sardines in a can of sweat for 8 hours, but it was a great ride! As we left the fouta region of central guinea, the hills became drier and less compact. Just like the guidebooks said, Dabola is reminiscent of an old town in the wild west. But for lunch we didn’t have steaks, we had rice and instead.

As we entered deeper into Haute territory, the hills flattened and the savannah truly began. It's super dry and super hot up here, but the landscape is one I could not have even imagined. Its more amazing than I ever would have thought. And this is my new home.

From Kankan, my CP and I came up to Siguiri, a short 3 hour drive north, during which you cross the Niger. Yes, I have crossed the Niger River, one of the lifelines of Africa. And I will cross it again tomorrow when I walk to Rob’s site, except this time, I will take a hand bridge, whatever that means.

Anyway, let me tell you about Siguiri some more. My CP has introduced me to some great people. He and his colleague at MGE are both great men (and attractive too!) they have made me feel at home, even though I am staying in a transit room in their office. I teared up a bit last night when Fode said he was going to go home; I have come to rely on him so much, I was afraid to be alone!

Today Fode rounded up an entourage of people from the groupement federation to present me to all the local officials. I felt like a celebrity – driving around in a car with people staring, off to meet the big wigs. 1st we met the local sage, an old man dressed in traditional clothing. We presented him with 10 kola nuts and 5000 Guinean Francs (about 1 dollar) to bring us good fortune during my trip and for my work; he said a prayer for us and we were on our way. Then we went to meet the Prefect and the Director of Microrealization for the entire region. The prefect has a daugter living in Arlington and a grandson at St. Cloud, so he and I talked a little hockey. Who would have thought I could talk college hockey to the Prefect of Siguiri? Strange things happen in Guinea! Anyway, we also met the head of police, the mayor, the head of the gendarme, and the head of the military camp. It was a long morning, but i am glad we gdid it. so far everyone seems super welcoming and nice.

Since arriving in Siguiri, I have eaten like a queen, receiving plates of delicious Guinean food from everyone I meet. Rice and sauce, couscous and chicken, fried bananas, oranges, peanuts, rice pudding… and yes, I said chicken. I am truly living like a queen. Tonight, I get to eat ‘TOO’, pronounced ‘toe’, a Haute Guinea specialty! i cant wait!

Even though these days have been stressful, hot and in French, I am the happiest girl alive. Life doesn’t get much better than falling in love, and I am in love with my new home and my new life. I am in the perfect region in the perfect country at the perfect time in my life. I may never come dwn from this Guinea- induced high, unless that spider over there takes another step closer to me!

Love you all. Keep sending those great letters and emails – I appreciate them so much!

I will write again soon.

Friday, February 17

Siguiri Girl

So, i find myself sitting in front of a computer once again with so much to say and so little time. Let me start off by saying THANK YOU to everyone who has sent letters. I have received quite a few – at least one every mail run! In addition, I have received a package from my mom – the best packagge ever containing tuna and granola bars and deodorant. What more can a girl in guinea ask for? Well, we will get to that later – I am starting a list of crap I would LOVE to receive here – refer to the bottom of this page.

Anyway, things are moving quite quickly here on the other side of the atlantic. A week ago, we had our site announcement ceremony, when all of us trainees found out where we are going to live the next couple years. I had specifically asked for Haute Guinea – a region in the NE – and I wanted to work with womens advancement and/or microfinance. I also dreamed of being FAR up north in the desert near Mali. When my APCD called out my name and said SIGUIRI, I let out a little scream – it was EXACTLY the town I had hoped for!!


Let me tell you a bit about Siguiri. Its in the FAR NE corner of the nation, 3 hours from Kankan, the regional capital, and 5 hours from Bamako, the capital of Mali. Siguiri is the 3rd largest city in Guinea, apparently, with a population of over 100,000. Located on the main NE road in the country that connects Conakry to Bamako, I am far away but easily accessible, given time. Gold is mined outside of town during the dry season and exported all over the world. I have heard that Siguiri has PIZZA, ELECTRICITY from 6pm-11pm, and INTERNET!! Oh, and theres a pool I can use for free at this ex-pat place outside of town! I didn’t reallywant a big city like this, but listening to all the ammenities I will have and comparing them to the other sites, I am pretty psyched! Plus, I will be living about 5-10 km from the Niger River – how cool is that! I will have to cross the river to get to my nearest american neighbor, Rob R. I am replacing a volunteer who quit Peace Corps a few months back bc she was offered a real job at the NGO she was working with; so, shes still there in Siguiri. I will hopefully meet her this coming week and get all the inside info on my new city.

Right now, though, we are in Mamou for counterpart workshop. Its cooler here – I actually slept with a blanket last ngiht and had goosebumps this morning after my shower. I already miss my host family – especially junior’s smile and the beans Mama Kouyate (my host mom) cooks for me every other night! I also miss bucket bathing. Running water is quite overrated!

This morning, I met my 2 counterparts (cp) – yes, I got two, even though most people only have one. This morning after an icebreaker, we got to wander around to find our cps and I just kept asking everyone “siguiri, siguiri”. I found one of them, and not knowing I had 2, I sat down with the first one and began to try my luck at a flowing french conversation. All of a sudden, we were interrupted by my other counterpart and the two kept claiming I was theirs. They fought over me for a minute until we realized I was the american for the both of them. They would have to share. One of my cps, named Fode Konate, works for a microcredit and training org that works directly with a federation of groupements. My other cp, Oumar Camara, works with a group that trains young women to use technologie and understand basic business strategy. So, I got exactly what I wanted – I get to workwithg young women AND microfinance AND groupements!!! My APCD truly made the perfect match for me, or at least I think so now!!

After a couple of days more in Mamou, we head out for site visits, so I will see if I really am in love with Siguiri, like I think I am. We leave with our counterparts and apparently I am not staying at my future house, I am staying with one of my cps and his family. Or at least that’s what I think he said! My french skills are getting pretty good, but sometimes I am not sure I understand everything they are trying to say. After 3 nights in Siguiri, we are all meeting up in the regional capital, kankan, to get to know the town. We then travel back to Forecariah together via bush taxi. I am not looking forward to that LOOOONG overcrowded bush taxi ride from one corner of the country to the other.

Its going to be strange to head back to my training site after visiting sigiuri. I wonder if I will be more focused in class or if I will be more distracted and impatient for training to be over. Either way, I think I will be ready for training to be over in March, although the thought of leaving my American friends makes me sad already. The coolest people are heading to my region, so I will have great neighbors, but my two closest friends are going to the Fouta, not Haute, and I am scared I am never going to see them again!!

Ok, time to wrap this long entry up. Let me start a list for things I want in care packages. Don’t feel pressured to send me care packages – letters and emails are wonderful! But if you are looking for soomething to send, here are some reccommendations:

Oreos
Tuna
Tampons (ob)
Lined notebooks (only graph paper here)
Pens that actually work
Highlighters
Old magazines (Economist)

Saturday, February 4

A Trip to Civilization

Hey everyone!!!

we have taken a day trip to conakry, the capital, to use the internet and eat hamburgers, so i have about a half hour to update.

our training site, forecariah is amazing. we are about 50 KM from the sierra leone border, near the coast, and theres a great mix of people in our town. although we are in the bas cote region, where there are mostly susu, my town has peuhls, malinke, and sierra leonians as well. my host family is amazing. i think they are the best family in town. my dad is a french teacher and my mom sells beans and onions in the market (which i eat every night for dinner now). when i moved in it seemed like there were hundreds of petits running around, but now i have learned their names and we have become good friends. a few run out along our path every day to greet me with hugs when i come home from class. i have really bonded with my 20 year old uncle, mamadi, who is studying economics at university. i have also bonded with my aunts, but thats more difficult as they dont speak french, only malinke.

i am cohabitating with a giant spider named gertrude. she is the size of a drink coaster and we are fast becoming friends. i am also cohabitating with giant roaches that run fast and fly faster. we arent as good of friends yet. everyday brings something new to enjoy... sometims its a pineapple, sometimes its a letter from home, some days its just a cool breeze or a bucket bath at 5pm. i really love it here and i cant imagine being anywhere else.

send my love to everyone. i will update again in a few weeks from mamou. that will be a fun one, as i will know my site by then!!!!!

ps.... look at pictures on flickr!!!!! http://www.flickr.com/photos/amyeklein/